|
The two Portlands On our right, a jewel by the sea There are lobster rolls and there are lobster rolls. That was the idea, anyway. To turn a meal into a metaphor for the old Portland and the new. The usual order of the dubious regional specialty--chunks of lobster meat served on a grilled hotdog bun with mayonnaise--represents classic Maine, the land of lighthouses, lobster traps and wily codgers who talk like that guy in the Pepperidge Farm commercials. But in the lunch-as-literary-device that we imagined, the second version of lobster roll, as in maki, would stand for the Portland of martini lounges, art galleries and $30 entrees, the Portland that has rapidly transformed itself from a waystation for wharf rats into an almost suspiciously charming tourist mecca. The Portland Public Market, the coastal Maine city's smaller-scale answer to Boston's Faneuil Hall, was not, alas, cooperating. "Lobster's too expensive right now," explained the server at the market's sushi stand. Metaphor interrupted. So in Portland, as it turns out, there are lobster rolls and there are Maine salmon rolls. Most of our previous trips have tended toward the sushi side of southern Maine. When we visit family in neighboring New Hampshire, we usually take a quick trip to Portland for a hit of culture and cappuccino, assets rare between this stretch of coast and Boston. This time, though, we were determined to explore the city's history, too, to mix some lighthouses with the coffee houses and to learn what, in fact, that first syllable of Portland is all about. This, after all, is a place where a sign on a business near the tourist district proclaiming "innovative seafood solutions" refers not to new variations on how to saute shrimp but to better ways to process and pack tons of the stuff. For those who may remember Portland as one big red-light district aiming mostly to serve seamen's base needs--or who have heard it described that way by, for instance, a father or father-in-law--the city will come as a more-than-pleasant surprise. Check that. Given all contemporary Portland has to offer despite a population of just 64,000, it's almost more a shock than just a surprise. This has to count as one of the most remarkable small cities in America. Big and varied enough to satisfy four or five days of hard visitation, it's got bookshops and cafes galore, an impressive art museum packed with Homers and Hoppers, and truly first-rate restaurants, including one, Fore Street, ranked at No. 16 in Gourmet's recent U.S. Top 50. That places it ahead of, for instance, all Chicago locales except Charlie Trotter's, and it isn't even our Portland favorite (which would be Hugo's, but more on that later). It's no wonder that Chris Barry, a former writer for the local Casco Bay Weekly, dubbed Portland "New England's Hippest City" in the subtitle to his guidebook, "Portland Undercover." The streets, many of them cobblestoned in the heavily trod Old Port area, boast a bevy of high-end shops, a healthy proportion of them local amid the expected national chains. You've seen those New Yorker ads for Green Design hand-crafted furniture? Their main showroom, full of elegant and seemingly eternal cherry constructions, is down on Commercial Street, across from all the wharves and fisheries. Also in Old Port is the main outpost of Stonewall Kitchen, the well-regarded purveyor of delectable sauces (Vidalia onion fig), mustards (Maine maple champagne) and other easily shipped specialty foods. The city sits on beautiful Casco Bay, a harbor that's deep enough for some serious ocean vessels--during our August visit two oil rigs were being built there to provide maritime authenticity--but is also dotted with inhabited islands well worth exploring. One of them, Great Diamond, was embroiled in a quaint, from a visitor's perspective, way-of-life controversy between the "old" island people and the "new" island people revolving around the use of golf carts on an island with no golf course. Another, Peaks Island, is home to a museum honoring the 5th Maine Volunteer Infantry, a regiment which fought in 22 Civil War battles, its numbers depleted by death, injury, transfer and desertion from more than 1,500 to 193 in a matter of three years. Portland is also a great jumping-off point for a day trip down to Freeport, home of the L.L. Bean outdoor goods empire and the bustling collection of quality outlet shops grown up around the gargantuan Bean headquarters store. The city is perfect, too, as an urban stopover on the way up to or down from the more rustic and breathtakingly beautiful Maine coast, which, like its counterpart in California, simply has to be seen. And Portland and a whole lot of visitors know full well its charms, to judge by hotel prices. To stay in merely the Soviet-bloc-style Holiday Inn, we had to pay $128 a night. Anything with an ounce of charm was $200 and up. So we joined our comrades at the big chain, making the best of the generic digs in order to spend the savings elsewhere. For an overview of the peninsular city, we headed first for the Portland Observatory, an 86-foot, octagonal wooden hilltop tower built in 1807 by an enterprising ex-seaman who sat up in it and, for a fee, relayed to the ground below news of which ships were coming into harbor by raising a series of coded signal flags. Capt. Lemuel Moody is long gone, but his rehabbed perch up on Munjoy Hill still offers old Portland lore and new Portland vistas. Inside, there's not only much original timber but authentic graffiti from 1834, the simple date and name, J. Marston, a disappointment to those who thought better of our ancestors' way with words. Outside, there are 360-degree views including the busy port just to the east and neighboring New Hampshire's Mt. Washington, the highest point in the northeastern U.S., 70 miles to the west. Sit on one of the tower-top wooden benches that has borne the backside of, among others, President James Madison--then squint so you don't see the Holiday Inn--and you'll understand what one Sgt. Prentiss (first name not recorded in the observatory's small museum) meant when he said of the city, in 1837: In one of the neighborhood's used-goods shops, we made what counts for us as a genuine find, a 1950s-era aluminum kitchen canister set with aquamarine lids that matched perfectly the ones with black lids we already had. If we were truly committed to the '50s and '60s esthetic--and also had enough disposable income to be staying at, say, the Portland Regency--Angela Adams' nearby rug, fabric and furniture boutique would have been ideal. Her original work, all bold geometrics in such once-passe colors as avocado and burnt orange, was as compelling as the prices were daunting. But Portland does more than cater to the kitsch and conspicuous consumption set. For all the tourist traffic, it still stands as one of the busiest ports in New England, offering, according to Port of Portland documents, "considerable domestic and foreign commerce in petroleum products, paper, wood pulp, scrap metal, coal, salt and containerized goods. It is also the Atlantic terminus pipeline for shipments of crude oil to Montreal and Ontario. In 1998, Portland became the largest port in the Northeast based on throughput tonnages." Even if you have no idea what a throughput tonnage might be, you have to be impressed, as you are by talk of the "ice-free harbor [that] offers secure anchorage to deep draft vessels in all weather." The city's many bars, like the Ri-Ra, a pretty good reproduction of an Irish pub on the waterfront Commercial Street, offer deep draft vessels of their own and time to contemplate all that shipping news. Over a pint of Shipyard Export Ale, one of the city's many fine microbrews, you might also reflect on Portland's historical tenacity. "How many cities can say they were destroyed four times, yet rose again with dogged determination?" asks one city tourism document. "We've survived two Indian massacres in the 1600s, bombardment by the Royal Navy in 1775, and a massive fire in 1866 that left 10,000 homeless and destroyed the entire financial and trade center of Portland." Almost as tenacious have been some of the area's lighthouses, some 52 of which are said to guard the rocky coast of Maine--or, more properly, to guard ships from the coast of Maine. Built during the administration of George Washington, and rebuilt often since, the Portland Head Light south of the city has been touted as the oldest operating and most-photographed lighthouse in the country. The tower itself is off-limits, but the adjacent museum, housed in the modest former lightkeeper's quarters, is well worth the $2 admission, offering a much more scholarly display than the metal screen door would suggest. Superbly organized, it's stuffed with the history of lighthouses--everything from actual lenses to a striking black-and-white photograph of a keeper's wife hanging her laundry--almost all of it fascinating. Outside, hiking paths line the cliffs along the surrounding shoreline, offering with every twist and turn yet another view that begs to be photographed. A small, pebbly beach and the remains of a World War II-era fort are also on the park grounds. (Nearby in South Portland is Barbara's Kitchen & Cafe, another enterprise the quality of which belies its modest structure. It serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and will also pack you a tasty meal to take to the lighthouse park.) If Portland is a jewel, then one of the best ways to admire its sparkle is from the water, a trip that can easily and cheaply be accomplished by taking one of the ferries plying outlying islands for the Casco Bay Lines. These are working boats, not tourist trawlers, so don't expect much in the way of narration or libation, unless you can persuade the guy toting back groceries from the mainland to break into his rations. But, depending upon your time and inclination, you can tag along as the line delivers mail, supplies and residents to the six islands it serves from before dawn to well past dusk. One of the quicker jaunts is the 15-minute hop to Peaks Island, the most populous of the Calendar Islands (so named because they are reportedly so bountiful there is one for every day of the year; we didn't make a count). Peaks is still small enough that a local newspaper runs a half-page feature about the plans of its high school graduates (Class of 2002: 12, all of whom commuted via ferry to class). And, it offers a pleasant couple of hours' wandering, on foot or by rented bicycle, admiring the vacation "cottages" before relaxing at a waterside cafe to wait for your ride back. On what is advertised as the "moonlight run," most of our fellow romantics appeared to be bringing home provisions or the odd piece of garage sale furniture. No wonder the guy in the parking garage laughed at us when we said we were there for the "cruise." It was utterly charming nonetheless, especially with a smuggled bottle of wine and the moon shining on the water. We even got to see some local wildlife. Wherever we stopped, teenagers swarmed the dock, flirting and watching the boats come and go. For island kids, the ferry stops are apparently the equivalent of the McDonald's parking lots in landlocked towns. "Sometimes," remarked one veteran passenger with the detachment of an anthropologist, "they even go swimming." The need to fulfill our own anthropologic function--that of the browsing, buying tourist--sent us back to the mainland. The Portland Museum of Art is small, thoughtfully arranged and sophisticated. It hosts a series of intriguing temporary exhibits--we caught the Neo-Impressionists this time--and a permanent collection that features works by Degas and Renoir as well as art related to Maine, either by scene or artist. A collection of Winslow Homer oils just acquired its own home in an adjacent gallery. If you stop by on a Friday night, admission is free. Next door is the Children's Museum of Maine, where youngsters can fulfill their fantasies of grown-up life by pretending to captain a ship, drive a firetruck or operate an ATM machine. Real cash will come in handy at the many boutiques. Anchored in the vintage brick buildings of Old Port, the center of the tourist district, are dozens of shops and galleries, among them a first-rate toy store and the self-explanatory Condom Sense. L.L. Bean operates an expansive outlet store on Congress Street near the art museum (and near the, yes, Starbucks; Starbuck was, after all, Ahab's first mate). The bargains may just tempt you to try to bring home a canoe as carry-on luggage. And at the end of several hours sightseeing, a good meal always beckons. Portland's restaurant scene has attracted national attention--added dash led, in large part, by the success of Fore Street, a bustling spot featuring fresh local ingredients, an open kitchen and an applewood-fueled grill. We have come to prefer the quieter, more intimate setting of Hugo's, which hasn't yet acquired the national reputation of Fore Street. But it probably will, given that chef Rob Evans has done stints at two of Gourmet's dozen best, Napa Valley's French Laundry (No. 3) and Virginia's The Inn at Little Washington (12). If you do make it there, hope that Evans is again offering the saffron-infused, farina-encrusted Atlantic skate bouillabaisse. Here, dinner does serve as metaphor. This dish works as a representative of the cosmopolitan place Portland has come to be, as well as the regional character it still retains. It's dotted with lobster that, just by virtue of being part of this exquisite, delicately flavored concoction, is on a roll. IF YOU GO GETTING THERE United and American fly non-stop to Portland, Maine, from Chicago, and other major carriers offer connecting service. Southwest flies into Manchester, N.H., which is about 90 miles away. Discount fares run about $200 round trip. ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel rooms in Portland tend to fill up quickly, particularly during the summer. So, if you don't want to stay next door to the airport, book early. Holiday Inn by the Bay, 88 Spring St., Portland, ME 04101. We stayed here because of price and availability, nothing else. The hotel is perfectly adequate, but its only distinctive feature is that it's the ugliest building on the Portland skyline. There is a wide range of rooms and rates, but a room with two beds and a view will cost you $162 in August; looking out on the bay from a king-size bed is $2 more. (800-345-5050 or 207-775-2311;. fax 207-761-8224; www.innbythebay.com) Percy Inn, 15 Pine St., Portland, ME 04102. If we had booked far enough ahead, we would have stayed here. When we peeked into the living room of this Federal-style rowhouse, which dates from 1830, it looked as though Charles Dickens had just stepped out for a moment, leaving his books, fireplace and exceptionally large cat behind. Lots of character and comfort, provided by an owner who is a travel writer and knows whereof he hosts. But it's probably not the best choice for people with young children (generally permitted only in accommodations in outlying buildings) and those who can't or don't wish to climb a steep staircase. Rates range from $129 to $275 during the summer and early fall months. (888-41-PERCY or 207-871-7638; fax 207-775-2599; www.percyinn.com) Portland Harbor Hotel, 468 Fore St., Portland, ME 04101. A new and impressive facility in a great Old Port location. Summer rates ranged from $240-$340. (888-798-9090 or 207-775-9090; fax 207-775-9990; www.theportlandharborhotel.com) DINING Hugo's, 88 Middle St. Top-flight dining, with an emphasis on local ingredients, in an elegant but unpretentious setting. (207-774-8538) Fore Street, 288 Fore St. The bustling room and occasionally brusque staff can make this place feel a bit like a food factory, but there's no disputing the excellence of the product, also focused on local foods. (207-775-2717) The Flatbread Company, 72 Commercial St. Great pizzas from a wood-fired oven, soups and salads right on the waterfront, featuring all-natural ingredients. (207-772-8777) Standard Baking Company, 31 Wharf St. Right across the street from Flatbread, this is, without a doubt, one of the best bakeries we've ever encountered. If you can pick only one thing, try the killer gingerbread. (207-773-2112) Bintliff's American Cafe, 98 Portland St. Recommended for the big and tasty breakfasts, especially. (207-774-0005) Barbara's Kitchen and Cafe, 388 Cottage Rd., South Portland. A tiny storefront that dishes up sophisticated fare, like a raspberry French toast. The perfect place to stop in for breakfast or lunch after you visit the Portland Head Light. (207-767-6313) SIGHTS Portland Head Light, 1000 Shore Rd., Cape Elizabeth. Ft. Williams Park is open year-round from sunrise to sunset, with no admission fee. The museum and gift shop are open 10 a.m.-4 p.m. daily from Memorial Day to the Friday after Columbus Day, and on weekends in the spring and late fall. Admission $2, $1 for children 6-18. From Interstate Highway 295 in Portland, take Maine Highway 77 south to South Portland. Go left on Broadway, then right on Cottage Road, which becomes Shore Road. (207-799-2661) Portland Observatory, 138 Congress St. Open 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily from May 25 to Oct. 14. Admission, which includes the guided tour, is $3 for adults, $2, children 6-16. (207-774-5561, ext. 104) Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Square. Open 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday (until 9 p.m. Thursday, Friday) and, from Memorial Day to Columbus Day, on Monday as well from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission: $8 adults; $6 seniors and students with an ID; $2 children 6-17; free under 6. Free admission 5-9 p.m. Friday. (207-775-6148) Casco Bay Lines. Provides daily ferry service to six outlying islands, as well as additional scenic cruises during the summer. An inexpensive, scenic way to tour the bay. For a full schedule and ticket prices, visit the Web site at www.cascobaylines.com. (207-774-7871) INFORMATION Greater Portland Convention & Visitors Bureau, 207-772-5800; www.visitportland.com. Maine Office of Tourism, 888-624-6345 or 207-287-5711; www.visitmaine.com. Casco Bay Weekly is a free local weekly that has dining, lodging and event listings; www.cascobayweekly.com. --Louise Kiernan and Steve Johnson ---------- Chicago Tribune Date: Sunday, November 24, 2002 Edition: Chicagoland Final Section: Travel Page: 1 Zone: C Source: By Louise Kiernan and Steve Johnson, Tribune staff writers. Dateline: PORTLAND, Maine E-mail: lkiernan@tribune.com, sajohnson@tribune.com Copyright 2002 Chicago Tribune. |